Days 12-21: Scandanavia [This entry: Days 12-13 Copenhagen]
On Couchettes
In my experience there are two configurations for 2nd class couchettes: the kind where there are simply 6 beds in a room and the kind where there are 6 seats facing each other that cleverly morph into beds. In the first (more common) design, it is important to have a clear strategy in mind before you board the train because space is at a premium and you have nowhere to go but to hunker down on your bunk. In the second design, however, genuine conversation is possible between travelers—and in a comfortable setting, too. We lucked out and had the second kind going to Copenhagen and even had a wonderful Danish couple to share it with. We chatted about Italy (where we had both been), Jutland (the mainland of Denmark), European affairs, the USA, its relations with Mexico and Native Americans and how the world is becoming so much more global every day. It was nice.
Denmark At Last
The next morning we awoke in Denmark and arrived at the central Copenhagen train station. When I had called Soren the day before, he wasn’t sure if he or Anna would pick us up. Neither was on the platform when we stepped off the train. A man went rushing by and Maria asked if that was Soren. Suddenly for a moment, I questioned myself: Would I remember what Soren looked like? I hoped so. He had, afterall, stayed with Anna & I for a week this spring. Just then, I saw Anna wave and I knew we would be in good hands, the best.
She whisked us home to her father’s flat in the heart of the city, to be our base camp for the next few days. We had a tasty breakfast of cheese and toasted rolls and coffee. She gave us maps, essential info (like our address!) and her recommendations for what to see. She also planned a homecoming/welcome that night with Karina, Soren and some of her friends. It was so nice to see her again.
Day 12: Copenhagen: The First Day
Maria and I took showers and headed out to seize the city. It was Wednesday and museums were free so we started there. First stop was the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, which is considered the city’s finest gallery. It had an amazing array of Greek, Roman and Egyptian art, but what I seem to recall was a striking painting of a mandolin player. What wowed us the most was its beautiful atrium. Even if you skip the art, check out the atrium. From there we darted up the street to the National Museum, which was simply amazing in its completeness. It tells the story of Denmark from 80,000 years ago to present, one room at a time. Science, history, culture, religion, it was all there. I learned a lot at that place.
Random Discoveries
A sampling from my notepad: I saw a skeleton from an Aurochs, apparently the largest animal around 80,000 years ago (bigger than an elephant!), a c. 5500 BC vintage fish trap that was ingeniously simple and learned that the earth could feed 2-300M people when agriculture began. And now we’re at 6 billion? That’s some serious productivity growth. I learned that geometric patterns began to be preferred about 400 AD. Most amazing was that the Vikings were first mentioned in Room 20 of 23, around the 830s AD. I had no idea there was so much pre-history in Denmark. Greenland was cultivated by Denmark in ~950s. And King Bluetooth united Denmark in 980 and made Christianity official. I can only wonder if today’s contemporaries will be able to achieve the same glory with Bluetooth wireless technology. Brick making was imported from northern Italy ~1156. And Room 24 smells just like my orthodontist’s office used to. Strange but true. You don’t forget scents like that. The coolest sight was clearly a 1656 “cylinder perspective” – it had a distorted image painted on a cylinder that when displayed on the wall made a perfect picture. Now that is an art form that takes some serious talent!
I can’t share what the modern era was like because we nearly got locked in the 18th century. With doors shutting in our path, we decided to escape. On the way home, we watched a polite British street performer warm up the crowd with his bicycle antics and I had my first sausage with a spicy ketchup that I would spend the rest of our time trying to figure out. They have curry ketchup here! Rather than our bi-fold buns in the USA, the Danes have a major design innovation in their hot dog buns: a solid bun that they stick the sauce and dog into from an end, ensuring no run-a-way dogs. Maria and I made a salad to go with dinner and had our first adventure at the grocery store, trying to price and label our produce, decide which of the various Carlsberg and Tuborg beers we wanted to buy and carry our groceries home without any bags. Oh, and it suddenly started raining really big drops. Luckily we lived just a block away from ISO. Anna made chili con carne for dinner – really tasty, but I teased her about its Danish authenticity. We had about 8 people over and everyone seemed to be having a great time when my friend Thomas rang. Would we like to do dinner Friday after work? Definitely.
...And All That Jazz
That night we went out to see Nicolaj Bentzon play piano in the Black Diamond, a high style architectural marvel of a library (with lots of glass, hard surfaces, atrium and flat panel computers). It was, after all, Copenhagen Jazz Festival and there was jazz everywhere practically every hour of every day. Big names, too. Ray Charles had given a concert just a few days before. The concert was low key but packed and I just kept thinking: this would never happen in America. Here we are out on a weeknight at a LIBRARY listening to live jazz with a full bar behind us. Heck, the Minister of Culture was even in attendance. A lady who apparently has said sport is like sex: fun to participate but not to watch. A major blow to sports business. Rick Burton: respond?
After the concert we dropped into a place called Drop In. The scene was lively, fun and a live band was mixing Dixieland with Classic Rock and Roll. The girls danced. Soren & I chatted. Learned some trivia about Nicolaj Bentzon: he is the son of the guy who composed the DSB train chime that you hear on every DSB train service in Denmark. In case anyone ever asks…you heard it here first.
Day 13: Copenhagen: The Second Day
Design Sounds
Thomas had told me about the Danish Design Center and I wanted to check it out so we did. It’s a very cool place if you are at all interested in design. They had an exhibit on Design Sounds that was simply amazing. You would never believe how much thought goes into how a product sounds when used and how that affects usability and your perception of the brand. They had ovens with playful chimes for Italy and precision sounding ones for other places (Germany?). They had tactile pillow speakers—a very cool idea. Basically, imagine if your big overstuffed huggable pillow could be a wireless speaker, too. Imagine the fun at parties. "I think you might like this tune...here, [throw pillow] take a listen...." They also had this far out multimedia exhibit called Stockholm Soundscape which I didn’t totally understand and a bunch of designs for cell phones done by design students studying Information Ergonomics (a field I didn’t know existed!). Maria had a lot of fun and I was in heaven.
They also had a fun exhibit on typography from www.e-types.com, which made me think of Moira who once led off a weblog entry by announcing the availability of a new typeface.
A Walk Across Town
After the DDC, we spent the afternoon in the pedestrian area where we encountered an unbelievable amount of activity. Maria, trying to create an audio record of our travels, had a good selection of street performers to record—reggae, accordians, brass, a young girl on drums and more. There were tons of cool shops (B&O, Georg Jensen, Magasin, 5 stories of Bodum & more) and lots of sales, but we didn’t go in to any. Just trying to get across town was hard enough. When it rains, the streets empty ASAP. The people just evaporate. As soon as the sun returns, so do the masses.
We happened upon an amazing outdoor photography exhibition of the Earth From The Air that was truly a wow. To my Danish friends: definitely check it out before it leaves in September. Always one to sample the local cuisine, I indulged and had a crepe filled with chocolate, fresh bananas and coconut. Yumm.
By the time I’d finished my crepe, we had managed to meander to Newhavn—the most picturesque part of Copenhagen and into the middle of a Dixieland jazz concert. The music was great, the buildings were colourful, the canal was packed with its ships and and the scene was truly great for people watching. I snapped some pictures and then relaxed to just soak up the scene. I didn’t want to leave.
But, alas, we had plans to go out with Soren that night and so we headed home. On the way we discovered a Peruvian group singing Paul Simon’s “Sounds of Silence.” It was at once both very cool and very odd. Knowing my dad’s oddball musical taste, I bought one of their CDs and Maria bought the other one.
Jazz Night II
We met up with Soren’s friends at the pupenhuse, an old firehouse turned concert hall. It was incredibly hot and the air was thin, but the night was fun. We met a couple moving to San Jose to join a dot com, a guy named "Life" (presumably spelled Leif) whose girlfriend looks just like someone I once worked with at The Barometer from tiny Elmira, Oregon. The concert featured the same musician we had seen the night before, but in a full band and the style was radically different.
Singing "Maria, Maria..."
After the concert and a few rounds, Maria and I made motions to head home and "rest" for our trip to Malmo, Sweden the next day. No way they said! Soren and Leif even broke out in chorus "Maria, Maria..." to beg us to reconsider. I nearly died laughing. They were dancing and singing and everything. It looked rehearsed but seemed totally spontaneous. At any rate, we couldn’t refuse. And so it came to be that I rode with Soren on a bike for one across town, over cobblestones and on to our destination. Our weight distribution was at times precarious and he once clipped my heel with his foot but we made it there alive. The couple bound for San Jose I would find out had only been married a week before and had – in a bid to do something original -- made their wedding invitations in a photomat booth. They reenacted their courtship in four quick poses and did it all in one take. A hilarious idea. And everyone loved them!
The night ended with a mixture of jabs about going to Malmo, friendly hugs and best wishes all around. Ah, to be in Denmark among Danes. What a wonderful thing!
Next Up: Malmo, Sweden tomorrow.